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Christmas day, 2000 we found ourselves on the beach at the North Shore, awed by the powerful and thunderous waves on the shore. No swimming allowed, but there were plenty of surfers out there. We had planned to sit and talk story with our friends, but the boom of the surf was so loud and the sight was so marvelous that we just sat there by the hour and watched the waves roll in, one after another, and listened to the din... |
